Choosing the Best Nail System for Your Client

When I first started out I was a home-based Nail Technician, and in all honesty, I felt like I was lost in the mass of the nail world. Even though I received the best training I was no longer “in training”, I was now on my own with clients walking through my door wanting all different kinds of things and asking me about different nail systems and what would be best for them. When you finish training, it stays with you but, only by throwing yourself into it, trying new things and, coming across the various issues do you then really start to learn the reality of the nail industry compared to what it was in the training room.

As Nail Technicians we have all been in that situation when a client sits down in front of you or, sends you a picture of their short-bitten nails and asks, “Is there anything you can do with these?”. When I first started my venture into the nail industry this was my worst nightmare. I would sit there and think to myself what on earth can I do with these nails. Only through time and experience have I learnt which nail system to use for which client, in order to ensure that they end up with what they want and importantly, what is best for their nails.

There are so many different nail systems, it can seem quite daunting when deciding which is best for your individual client’s needs. My clients would come for an appointment with me and ask for very short acrylic nail extensions which would be just over their fingertip in length. Of course, I would always do this for them, however, as I learned more I began to realise that sometimes these clients would actually benefit more from an alternative nail system. Now don’t get me wrong I have many clients who love long, mega nail extensions and yes, I absolutely love doing those sets of nails, however, I am not talking about those here. This advice is for those clients who would benefit from having their own natural nails.

The first thing I would suggest for short length nails would be a gel polish. Some clients naturally struggle to grow their own nails for a variety of reasons, for example through biting or picking, or their jobs may be more physical, so they break easily. Clients hear “natural nails” and dismiss the idea straight away. However, if you take the time to explain to them that you will help them with a nail growth programme this can catch their attention. If clients bite or break their nails easily I will initially put a set of acrylic nail extensions on them. However, if they don’t mind how short their natural nails are when you are starting out, then there is no reason why you can’t just do a gel polish straight onto their natural nails. It depends on what length they want their nails as to how long you keep the extensions on for. The majority of my clients who I have transferred from extensions to natural nails, have had three to four infill's and have then progressed to the next stage of the programme.

Their acrylic nails would then be soaked off, removed and their natural nails given a manicure. Their nails will have grown underneath the acrylic and often, clients are amazed to see how long they have grown underneath the acrylic. I must admit this is also quite a satisfying feeling from a Nail Technicians perspective! The client then has a gel polish applied to their natural nails but, a little tip in order to add some extra strength is to add structure gel to the nails in a fine layer. Many companies now have a soak off gel for strength and structure.

This then adds strength to their nail to allow for catching or knocking them when doing their day to day activities. I am a fan of nail art (this is no secret), and my clients also love to let me have free reign on their nails, so another positive is, that they can still have nail art and design. Just because their nails are natural and/or short doesn’t mean they have to be limited on their choices!

Another nail system I didn’t use too much when I was new into the industry, was an acrylic or gel overlay. In all honesty, I didn’t use it that much as I was never really sure of the point of it when you could just have extensions on. An overlay is what I use for my clients that have their own nails but, would like them long. Gel polish on natural nails are amazing but, in reality, it is only really beneficial for those wanting to keep shorter nails. If they are wanting longer nails, then an overlay is the way forward for them! This way they are keeping their own nails, however, they have the option of having them longer which opens them up to different shape options. An overlay of acrylic on their natural nails helps to keep them strong and the length that they would like them.

A large number of clients over the years have switched to natural nails and absolutely love the results! They boast to other clients in salon stating, “these are my natural nails” – some even boat this to cashiers in shops after being complimented when paying. This nail growth programme makes it possible for them to have long natural nails, something which, unless you broach this with them, they never thought they could have.

The question is “How do you know what nail system is the right one for your client?” Well, I am afraid there is no straightforward answer to that. It is all about trying the various systems with your client. Explain to them from the beginning that you will try them with a gel polish and then possibly go to an overlay if you feel that they need one. Your clients will appreciate you being open with them and explaining to them why you have chosen the system which you have.

The relationship between a Nail Technician and their client is an amazing one! Working through the natural nail growth programme helps you build up trust with them which is so important. Clients are often appreciative that you have helped guide them with your knowledge and expertise to make sure that they end up with the right nail system for them. It makes it personal and watching their nails grow is a fabulous thing to achieve for them and for you. I have a very loyal client base, which I have built up through gaining their trust and being open and honest with them and guiding them through their nail journey.

There is no one rule for nails; every client is individual. Everything factors into the equation, they will have different nail strengths, different jobs, different lifestyles, even the weather factors into it! Do what you think is best, if it doesn’t work then try a different nail system! The words that can happen is that they break a nail – but they’ve got you to fix that for them.