How Biotechnology is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredients and Sustainability

Our newest columnist, Lisa Franklin, is a multi award-winning skincare expert, product developer and nutritionist. She is the founder of The Lisa Franklin Clinic Privé, a luxury city skin haven, housed in a 100-year-old renovated building (originally The Working Ladies’ Guild), a stone’s throw from Harrods. Clinic Privé embraces the latest high-performance treatments to enhance the effectiveness and efficiency of its treatments, that combine hands-on techniques with the latest state-of- the-art equipment and advanced technologies to care for and treat the skin. This month, she shares how biotechnology is transforming the beauty industry.

The beauty industry has always evolved alongside science, and in recent years, biotechnology has emerged as a transformative force. From enhancing the potency of active ingredients to revolutionising sustainable sourcing, biotechnology is redefining the way we approach skincare and cosmetics. No longer just a futuristic concept, it is actively shaping skincare products, making them more effective, ethical, and environmentally friendly.

The Shift Towards Biotech

Traditional cosmetic formulations have long relied on natural extracts, synthetics, or chemically derived ingredients. While these have served their purpose, they come with challenges—natural extracts can require intensive harvesting, while synthetic chemicals may involve intensive industrial processes with environmental consequences.

Biotechnology provides an alternative by using small amounts of plant material or living organisms such as bacteria, yeast, and algae to produce potent bioactive compounds in controlled environments. This not only reduces environmental impact but also ensures ingredient purity, consistency, and efficacy. Instead of relying on unpredictable plant yields or petrochemical derivatives, biotech-derived ingredients are produced sustainably with minimal waste, water usage, and carbon emissions.

Biotechnology and Ingredient Potency: Enhancing Effectiveness

One of the greatest advantages of biotechnology in beauty is its ability to enhance the potency of cosmetic ingredients. By isolating and refining bioactive compounds at a molecular level, scientists can create highly concentrated, stable, and bioavailable formulations that deliver superior results.

Bioengineered Retinol and Vitamin C

Retinol and vitamin C are two of the most effective ingredients in skincare, but their instability often limits their efficacy. Biotechnology has enabled the development of more stable and potent derivatives, such as encapsulated retinol and ferment-derived vitamin C, which penetrate deeper into the skin, release gradually, and remain active for longer periods.

Peptides and Growth Factors

Biotechnology has led to the creation of bioengineered peptides that mimic natural skin-repairing proteins. These peptides stimulate collagen production, accelerate cell turnover, and reduce signs of aging with remarkable precision. Similarly, lab-grown epidermal growth factors derived from yeast or bacteria are now being used to regenerate skin, improve elasticity, and boost hydration—without the ethical concerns of traditional human or animal-derived growth factors.

Hyaluronic Acid and Fermentation Technology

Previously sourced from animal tissue, hyaluronic acid is now predominantly produced via fermentation using bacterial strains. This biotech-derived HA is purer, more sustainable, and available in various molecular weights for deeper skin penetration and long-lasting hydration. The result? Skincare products that deliver superior moisture retention without ethical or environmental drawbacks.

Algae and Microbial-Derived Actives

Marine biotechnology has unlocked powerful ingredients like astaxanthin, a potent antioxidant sourced from microalgae, and exopolysaccharides from marine bacteria, which boost hydration and protect against pollution. These ingredients outperform many synthetic antioxidants in potency while being sustainably cultivated in controlled bioreactors rather than extracted from vulnerable marine ecosystems.

Sustainability in Cosmetic Biotechnology

Beyond improving ingredient potency, biotechnology is at the forefront of making beauty more sustainable. Traditional ingredient sourcing, whether from rare plants, animals, or petrochemicals, has significant environmental and ethical implications. Biotechnology is solving these challenges through innovative methods that reduce reliance on natural resources.

Reducing Overharvesting and Biodiversity Loss

Many sought-after cosmetic ingredients, such as bakuchiol, squalane, and botanical extracts, are sourced from plants that require extensive farming or wild harvesting. Biotechnological advancements now allow these ingredients to be produced via microbial fermentation or cell culture, eliminating the need to deplete natural ecosystems.

Water and Energy Conservation

Traditional skincare production relies heavily on water-intensive processes, but biotechnology enables formulations and sustainable production methods with much less water usage. Fermentation, for example, produces active ingredients in closed-loop systems with significantly less water and energy than conventional extraction.

Biodegradable and Bioidentical Alternatives

Biotech-derived biopolymers and biosurfactants are now offering sustainable alternatives that break down naturally without harming ecosystems. One example is biosurfactants—naturally occurring, biodegradable cleansing agents derived from fermentation. Unlike traditional sulfates, they are gentle on the skin while being non-toxic to aquatic life, making them an eco-conscious choice for cleansers, shampoos, and body washes.

Carbon Capture and Upcycled Ingredients

Emerging biotech innovations are even tackling carbon emissions. Some companies are using captured CO2 to create cosmetic ingredients, such as ethanol and fatty acids, reducing reliance on fossil fuels. Similarly, biotechnology is enabling the upcycling of agricultural byproducts such as fruit peels, seeds and food waste to extract valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and exfoliating enzymes.

The Future of Biotech Beauty: Ethical, Efficient, and Effective

With growing consumer demand for sustainability, and high-performance skincare, biotechnology is set to play an even greater role in the future of cosmetics in key areas, such as

Personalised Skincare via DNA & Microbiome Analysis

Advancements in biotech are allowing tailored ingredients to an individual’s genetic makeup or skin microbiota. By analysing a person’s unique skin profile, biotech-powered formulations can deliver customised actives that optimise skin health.

Vegan and Cruelty-Free Innovations

With the rise of biotech-derived alternatives, traditional animal-based ingredients like collagen, keratin, and silk proteins are being replaced with lab-grown or plant-based equivalents. These innovations support cruelty-free beauty while offering equal or superior performance.

Smart, Self-Regenerating Ingredients

Future biotechnology is expected to introduce self-regenerating actives, which continuously release nutrients into the skin for prolonged effects. Imagine a moisturiser that reactivates itself when exposed to environmental stressors, this is the next frontier of biotech beauty.

AI-Driven Ingredient Development

Artificial intelligence and biotechnology are merging to accelerate the discovery of new bioactive compounds. AI can rapidly analyse thousands of molecules to identify the most effective combinations, reducing research timelines and ensuring skincare innovations reach consumers faster.

Biotechnology is redefining the very foundations of cosmetic formulation and sustainability. By enhancing ingredient potency, reducing environmental impact, and pioneering new ethical innovations, biotech beauty is offering a smarter, cleaner, and more responsible approach to skincare.

For consumers, this means access to high-performance products that deliver superior results while aligning with ethical and eco-friendly values. For the planet, it signifies a shift away from resource-intensive beauty practices toward a circular, regenerative, and responsible industry.