Back to Basics with Skincare Ingredients

With over two decades of experience, our columnist, Katie Hughes-Dawkins is a highly respected figure in the aesthetic industry, known for her technical expertise and strategic leadership. From her beginnings as a dental nurse and aesthetic practitioner, running a chain of skin clinics, to becoming a dynamic sales leader, Katie has consistently driven business growth and elevated brand profiles on a global scale. Leveraging her extensive industry knowledge and global connections, she helps brands and clinics achieve remarkable success. A sought-after industry contributor, Katie brings her deep understanding of skin health, clinic operations, and the latest aesthetic industry trends to the forefront.

Having served over two decades in the beauty and aesthetics industry, I’ve come to realise that while many treatments, products, and ingredients make a big splash when they arrive, not all stand the test of time. In my experience, there are a few powerhouse ingredients that truly benefit skin health and enhance the results of in-clinic treatments. Sometimes, taking it back to basics is the best option to avoid the overwhelming options when it comes to choosing what’s best for your skin.

It’s all too easy to be lured by the latest trends, flashy marketing campaigns, or our favourite celebrities claiming that a specific product is the key to their youthful glow. However, what we know is this: no single treatment, product, or ingredient is the ultimate answer. Rather, a holistic approach to overall skin health is key.

Buzzwords such as “glass skin,” “skin cycling,” and “drenching” are among the latest in TikTok skinfluencers’ repertoire, promising us our “best skin ever.” Most of these terms are clever marketing tactics, and even the savviest skincare consumer can be drawn in. After all, who doesn’t want glass skin, right? In all seriousness, though, glass skin wouldn’t be ideal — frail, see-through, and easily cracked? No thanks!

The snail mucin- and hyaluronic acid-saturated skin we see online isn’t necessarily healthy skin.

So, what ingredients will promote true skin health and give us that glow we all desire?

I like to stick to tried-and-tested ingredients that have been around long enough to be backed by scientific evidence proving their positive impact on the skin.

First and foremost, cleansing is key to optimal skin health. Without a clean, debris-free canvas, our products can’t work effectively. The cleanser you choose should be mild enough not to irritate the skin but still contain beneficial ingredients for skin preparation.

One of my favourite cleansers is Cleansing Complex by iS Clinical, as it mildly exfoliates using botanical ingredients similar to glycolic acid, called willow bark extract. This ensures that the skin is ready to absorb the active products that follow. Cream and oil cleansers are great for makeup removal, but I always like to follow up with a cleansing wash to remove any residue from the cream or oil.

Double cleansing is crucial, especially in the evening and when wearing makeup. I always tell clients, “First cleanse removes the day; second cleanse treats the skin,” to explain why double cleansing is necessary. After cleansing, I follow up with a treatment serum. My favourite ingredients are high-quality hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that helps hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture. It can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it excellent for improving skin hydration, plumping the skin, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can enhance the skin’s barrier function, keeping it protected and less prone to irritation.

Vitamin C, specifically L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C, is a potent antioxidant when applied topically. It helps neutralise free radicals caused by UV exposure and environmental stressors, which can lead to premature ageing. It also brightens the complexion by inhibiting melanin production, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. Vitamin C stimulates collagen production, improving skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it protects against sun damage and helps repair the skin’s barrier. Overall, vitamin C is a powerhouse ingredient with multiple benefits for skin health.

After using treatment serums, I apply a moisturiser followed by a separate SPF. Most professional-grade moisturisers don’t contain SPF because the active ingredients in moisturisers can degrade when SPF is added. Standalone SPFs are also higher quality and more effective when used as the final step in any skincare routine. I personally prefer a physical SPF, which usually contains ingredients such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These mineral ingredients sit on the surface of the skin and reflect both UVA and UVB rays. Physical sunscreens also tend to offer broad-spectrum protection, shielding the skin from a wide range of UV damage.

In the evening, I switch up my regimen slightly by adding a vitamin A moisturiser, commonly known as retinol.

Topical vitamin A, usually found in the form of retinoids like retinol or retinoic acid, is a powerful ingredient. It accelerates cell turnover, which slows down as we age. This process helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation while improving skin texture and tone. Vitamin A also stimulates collagen production, leading to firmer, more youthful skin. Additionally, it helps unclog pores, making it effective in treating acne and preventing future breakouts. Regular use can result in smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin. It’s important, however, to start “low and slow” with the amount and percentage of retinol until your skin acclimates.

The quality of all these ingredients is crucial, and I always recommend that consumers seek advice from professionals rather than relying on “shelf-bought” or cosmetic products. In the long run, this can save you a lot of money, as a skilled professional will know which products and ingredients are best suited to your skin type and specific concerns or goals.